SOUTHERN ILLINOIS CLIMBING AREAS
The ICA manages, educates and protects climbing areas in Illinois. A few ways we do that are by building relationships with land owners in order to open up new climbing areas, maintenance of current climbing areas, replacing old hardware, and developing new routes and boulder problems. Below are the climbing areas the ICA stewards.
If you have prior route development experience and would like to get involved in development at Ferne Clyffe, our newest sport crag, or Cedar Bluff please fill out the form below!
The Access Fund acquired the Holy Boulders to prevent their closure and later transferred ownership to the ICA in 2016. We repaid a $90,000 conservation loan by 2019 with community support, preserving a highly regarded sandstone climbing area and ensuring long-term access for climbers.
Ferne Clyffe State Park | Goreville, IL
At Ferne Clyffe State Park, the ICA has worked with land managers to support responsible climbing access, assist with route development and maintenance, and promote conservation to protect the park’s natural resources.
Jackson Falls | Ozark, IL
The ICA is thrilled to announce a formal partnership between the ICA and the U. S. Forest Service, Shawnee National Forest (SNF) wherein the ICA will address stewardship and maintenance of rock climbing resources across the Forest.
This is the first formal partnership that has been created between a climbing-based organization and the SNF. The ICA is very proud to assume this role after a long-standing, positive relationship with the SNF.
The first project the ICA will tackle is fixed anchor replacement at Jackson Falls recreation area. Aging hardware is a great concern for climbers. The ICA will systematically replace anchors with new, stainless steel hardware that meet modern standards. The continued maintenance of fixed hardware is essential to prevent bolt failure and improve user safety. This is a tremendous task that will require large funds and countless work hours to update hardware on over 200 climbing routes.
Pere Marquette State Park | Grafton, IL
The ICA is proud to present Illinois' newest rock climbing destination, Pere Marquette State Park. Located an hour from St. Louis just outside the lively town of Grafton, Pere Marquette offers highly featured limestone formations great for climbing.
Since early 2015 the ICA has been working with the Illinois Department of Natural Resources to gain their blessing for this project, which includes new trails, landscaping with natural rock steps, and both sport routes and top-anchors for traditional leads. This new climbing area will ultimately have over 60 climbing routes.
The House Boulders was permanently protected for public use when the ICA partnered with the Access Fund to purchase the property in 2021, building on our earlier conservation work at the Holy Boulders. Since then, we have managed trails, parking, and events to maintain access and preserve the area.
Cedar Bluff | Buncombe, IL
Cedar Bluff is a well-known sandstone climbing area featuring both bouldering and sport routes. The ICA has played a key role in organizing stewardship efforts there to protect the natural environment while supporting the climbing community.
Giant City State Park | Makanda, IL
Giant City State Park requested assistance from the ICA to install fixed anchors on established routes at Shelter One. Climbing at Shelter One or “Makanda Bluff” has been at the center of climbing culture in southern Illinois since the early 1960’s. Historically, top roping, traditional climbing, and bouldering have been permitted at Shelter One. With the decision to add bolts for sport climbing to established routes, the Park hopes to decrease cliff top erosion, increase climber participation, and increase park visitation. The ICA is grateful for the opportunity to assist the Park and to increase climbing opportunities in the area.
The ICA began installing bolts at Shelter One on December 9, 2017. 63 routes have been bolted to date. Please beware of closed routes (marked with a sign stating “DO NOT USE”). Closed routes are unsafe to climb!
This project is funded by Giant City State Park, Friends of Giant City, and the ICA. ISpecial thanks to Giant City State Park, Friends of Giant City, Eric Ulner and Jeff Frizzel for project guidance.
Alto Pass | Alto Pass, IL
In the spring of 2017, a brand new crag was opened up for climbers. Welcome to Alto Pass! This project was made possible thanks to a great relationship between the town of Alto Pass and the Illinois Climbers Association. Primarily a sport and bouldering area with traditional lines mixed in, these shorter walls provide endless fun.
The area is well suited for "first leads" because of the closely spaced bolts and fun climbing. With abundant shade in the warmer months and plentiful sun in the cooler months, this area is climber friendly year round. Alto Pass is still in its development phase, so keep your eyes peeled as route development continues.