John

I began climbing in 1983, and climbing very quickly became a passion that would define me. Quickly wanting the “sharp end”, I began to learn the craft of leading, and absorbed all available literature I could obtain on the subject. I began establishing climbing routes with a ground up style that mirrored the views of the many legends that I admired. A few of these ground-up ascents remain unrepeated. I established numerous rock routes throughout Southern Illinois. Intent on becoming a true alpine climber, I also acquired ice tools and began leading and establishing ice routes as well. I established rock climbs that range from 5.7 to 5.12c, from ground up trad, ice and sport routes. I ventured to Colorado to test the skills I had honed at the local crag, and climbed the stone that so many of the legends that I admired had climbed. Colorado soon became a favorite trip.

In 1991 I learned that the Forest Service was involved in a land swap deal with the State of Illinois and that Cedar Bluff was to be transferred to the State which could have meant the loss of climbing access to one of my favorite areas, and where several of my routes exist. I summoned a meeting with the active climbers of the time and quickly established the Southern Illinois Climber’s Alliance. In that meeting I was chosen as president and through countless meetings with State and Federal land managers and politicians, climbing was grandfathered in at Cedar Bluffs. I pressed on to work with the Forest Service on projects at Jackson Falls getting the first kiosk and improvements to the parking lot and access road which resulted in the long dreaded bog getting fixed. I remained President until ICA was formed.

I owned a plumbing business for several years and later became a sales representative. I have spent many hours meeting with State and Federal agencies to ensure climbing continues in Southern Illinois.